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9 Apr 2015

FAQ: Life as an expat in Dubai


You asked for it and I finally got round to writing it. Here is my FAQ post about life in Dubai. Now I don't consider myself Queen of Expats - I have only lived abroad for 5 years or so - but I often get emails and messages that explore themes regarding life in the UAE and so it made sense to create a repository of responses that will, finger crossed, be helpful for some of you. So here we go…

Moving  - motivations, job seeking and house hunting


Why did you move to Dubai?
The response to this question will be different for everyone. I myself had been to the UAE on holiday several times and I had also worked on a project for a media company in Abu Dhabi over a number of months so I had prior experience of the country - and I liked it. I have also always wanted to live abroad and the combination of sunshine, tax free salaries and a safe environment lured me in.

How did you get a job/how can I get a job?
I think this answer would apply anywhere - it's all about contacts. My first contract was through a company that I had initially used as a supplier on that aforementioned Abu Dhabi project. Through that you make connections and so on. If you are starting to look for work here my advice is:

a) LinkedIn - this will be your best friend as there are always recruiters patrolling LinkedIn.
b) Get recruited from abroad at first - generally speaking your package (salary, housing allowance etc) will be higher if you get recruited from your home country and it can often be hard to find a decent role once you are here.
c) Get experience first - a lot of the messages that I get are from those of you who are still studying at university/college and concern getting a graduate job in the UAE. It's absolutely possible but you will find it much easier to get a (good) job if you have 1-2 years experience (minimum) in your home country. It will give you stronger bargaining power and is very much connected to the above point regarding package.

Do you get healthcare with your job?
Yes - but sometimes no. It depends where your company is registered because in some of the "Free Zones" the obligation to provide healthcare does not exist.

How do you chose a place to live? 
There are certain areas that are expat strongholds. Marina, JBR, JLT, Downtown, TECOM, the Greens - these are all typical "first ports" for new arrivals.

If you can my advice would be to arrange a short term lease for your first 1-2 months in the city. Most real estate agents will have options - try Betterhomes. I lived in company accommodation for a month and then rented a place in Marina for 1 month. That gave me time to get a feel for different areas and we ended up deciding on JBR and lived there for a few years.

What I would tell you upfront though is:

a) Rent can be VERY expensive. It's comparable to the good parts of London in many instances. Housing allowance helps soften the blow but many companies stopped giving that out a few years ago and it's now not always the norm to get this in addition to your monthly salary.
b) You pay by backdated cheques - in a good economic climate you have to pay your annual rent upfront. In one cheque. This may make you cry. You may also need assistance in understanding how to write a cheque in the first place.

Living - cost of living, cultural differences and way of life


What's it like living in Dubai?
A busy, cosmopolitan, clean, safe city. Yes it's in the Middle East but don't let Western media lead you to believe that it's an extreme place to live because its absolutely not. Like any society there are rules to follow and you should make yourself aware of them but when you visit here you will find it a supremely easy place to be.

At the same time I write this from a perspective of a Western expat. The experience is not equal for everyone and if you don't realise that well then, you're an idiot.

Is it expensive? 
Yes! It's tax free but that does not equate to "cheap". Food, electricity/air conditioning, rent…these are all substantial costs. The only things that are actually cheap when compared to home are taxis and diamonds. True story.

How do you find working in the UAE as a Western female?
I had this question a couple of times and I've had it asked in the past several times before that. To me it's quite revealing because although the UAE is a very advanced country there is a still a perception of it being a difficult to place to live and work for a woman. I can tell you that I have never felt prejudice as a Western woman. I work with other expats (Western and Arab) but also local (Emirati) clients and there isn't any difference - if anything I get more respect from the latter!

Now there was a dodgy moment in Qatar where I was refused entry to a meeting because my calves were on show but in general I would say that intelligence is respected and it does not matter what gender that comes from.

How are expats perceived by Emiratis?
This question came up a few times and the key thing to note is that 90-odd per cent of the country is expatriate. The national strategy is focused on welcoming incoming visitors so I would say that it is an extremely tolerant place to visit and live.

Do you have to learn Arabic? 
Business is conducted in English so the answer to that is no. I have worked with government organisations and not speaking Arabic can be a barrier but otherwise there is no impact. Having said that I really should learn. Throwing around some wallahs and yallas does not count as language skills.

Is it safe? 
Safety is one of the main reasons why I would continue living here. I could trot out at any time, day or night, and would feel safe. It's very much a bubble in that respect and you only realise it when you travel out of the country. I remember landing in Seattle and seeing beggars on the streets and I got a sudden jolt of reality. Princess-y much?

Of course this isn't an unusual sight anywhere else - I lived in central London for years and saw all sorts - but you get so disconnected from that reality here and I can't say that in this respect I mind that much.

Are things censored?
Well 50 Shades of Grey was banned. Whether this was because of supposed gratuitous s*x scenes or Jamie Dornan's appalling accent we do not know.

So yes, films are cut and websites are often blocked. It was a big moment when Flickr was finally accessible.

Fun fact: when I worked at Yahoo! an immigration officer at Dubai Airport asked me to try and get the ban on Flickr lifted so he could share his photos with the world :)

What's the dating culture like?
As an old married lady I have no idea. Tinder exists though - I know this because I have had many a fun evening playing with that app on a friends phone :)

Is it easy to make friends?
As a blogger I think I am at an advantage. I go to events and meet people with similar interests and this naturally builds up a network. Pursuing hobbies and meeting people at work are going to be your main "recruitment grounds".

I think as you get older it's trickier to meet people though - am I right that this is the case everywhere?

Are people fake?
Like anywhere, yes, sometimes they are and you soon learn to roll your eyes and move on.

How do you cope with the heat? 
Honestly, half the year I live indoors. From April/May until October, I go from air conditioned house to air conditioned car to air conditioned office and minimise sweat time by avoiding The Outside. It's fine - I'm used to it. I feel more sorry for my dogs who have to enjoy 6am/12am walkies because any other time would be miserably hot for them.

How does your life change during Ramadan?
No drinking, eating or chewing in public during day light hours and avoiding the roads or trying to get taxis at the time when fasting ends each day. Cafes and restaurants are of course closed - or blackout curtains are up to hide consumption from view - but its actually quite a nice time. The malls are open late and work is quiet because a lot of people go on an extended holiday and those who stay behind adopt Ramadan hours which means an early finish.

Have you had to adjust your wardrobe to fit in with the culture? 
I think I dress the way I would dress back home. I have never been one to get my arse/boobs out.

I would say however that I am more conscious of what I wear here and specifically whether or not it is "appropriate" for the location. For example, after a brunch when I am in a dress and my husband decides to go and buy 12 candles in Bath and Body Works because he gets FOMO when they have an offer on, I will opt to stay in the car. Short dresses and malls make me feel uncomfortable. Why risk offending someone or attracting unnecessary attention?

Understanding the dress code here can be confusing but it's all determined by where you are. In a tourist area/hotel? Wear what you want. In a mall? Don't dress in a way that's too revealing. That means that the girl I saw in Mall of the Emirates the other month in bootie shorts and a booby tank top was totally inappropriate. Girlfriend should have stayed at the beach.

A good analogy that I use is: would you wear this on the tube late at night? If the answer is no, put more clothes on :)

Do you have ups and downs? 
Oh yes. I am sure everyone who has lived away from home can say the same. I think this is normal.

The best piece of advice I received was actually left by someone who commented on my YouTube channel once upon a time. She said that in order to make somewhere feel like home you need to establish a routine - certain coffee shops, supermarkets, cafes etc…and make those "yours". This along with the rules of "saying yes to everything when you first arrive" will help you meet people and feel at home.

Planning - missing home and staying or going? 


What do you miss from home? 
I miss family, friends, high street shopping, seasonal weather, cosy clothes, good TV, the latest make up releases, wine aisles in supermarkets, walking, visiting M&S, Pret a Manger or Eat for weekday lunches and decent TV advertising.

Are you planning to stay?
This is a hot topic whenever I get together with friends - the "how long will you stay" question. I am in no rush to return to the UK and would be open to moving to another country after this one. I can't put a time limit on anything because circumstances change, often without warning, and you cannot prepare for that. Let's wait and see but right now I am enjoying life just fine over here :)

Thank you to everyone who left a question on my Facebook page. I know I haven't answered all of them and if there is anything you desperately want to know, leave a comment below!

103 comments

  1. This is such a great post! I think a lot of this could also apply to living in any other country, which is something I have been thinking about. Glad you enjoy living in Dubai, definitely want to visit soon.

    Nikita

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  2. What is funny about living abroad for a long period of time is that you somehow feel a foreigner there and then when you decide to move back home you also feel a foreigner because circumstances have changed. Your friends have moved on, your favorite cafes have closed down, you do not recognize local tv celebrities, etc. I lived in the US for 5 years (which is where I first discovered you on youtube) and now I am back home in Greece for almost 2 years but still sort of feel like a foreigner here. However, I agree with you that living abroad is a unique experience that opens your horizons. I hope you enjoy your staying abroad whether or not you decide to move back home.

    x
    http://abstracttoday.blogspot.gr/

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    1. That's a very valid comment. It will be interesting to see how I felt if I moved home - whether I would experience the same things. I hope you have now settled back home and have found new friends and new places to go :) x

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  3. This was really interesting to read! I've got to hand it to you, moving to a different country, let alone continent, does sound tough. Yet, we do have this common misconception of what certain areas of the world are like, and we could be (and normally are) far from the truth. We never know unless we go and it was refreshing to hear about your experiences!
    Plus, I think it's super cool that you worked for Yahoo! ! :D
    xoxo,

    BerryBloomXO.com | Beauty & Lifestyle Blog 
    also on BLOGLOVIN 

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  4. I love visiting Dubai and it's actually somewhere I could see myself living. I doubt I would ever move but it was really interesting reading about your life there. Katie x

    www.katiejaneonline.com

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  5. Well Laura, this post has made me want to move over to Dubai even more now! And as a recruiter I'm never short of offers to work over there (your comment about recruiters 'patrolling Linkedin' made me laugh...I am at work at the moment on Linkedin as we speak - headhunting! haha! Us recruiters do love a bit of Linkedin!)

    I couldn't get over how cheap taxi's are in Dubai and I love how every taxi driver hates the new tram system!

    When I was at Dubai Mall I saw a girl dressed in shorts with her bum cheeks hanging out and a crop top on....even I was offended!

    Great post Laura (claps hands!)

    Lis x

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  6. I moved to Hong Kong when I was 4 and we moved back when I was 9. I loved living abroad, but I'm glad I had my teenager years in the UK. I think everyone should live abroad at some point in their lives. Its seriously the best!

    Emily x
    www.emandthem.co.uk

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  7. This was such an interesting post, it certainly seems as though you enjoy life in Dubai. My auntie has lived out there for about 8 years now and although she would move to another country she has said that she will never come back to live in the UK. I've visited Dubai about 5 times now, the first time 5 years ago and with each visit it's amazing to see how much has changed and developed! I couldn't agree more in terms of the safety and cleanliness aspect, it really is like a different world compared to the UK. I remember going in July one year and the sea was just like a warm bath, crazy! x

    What Rachael Wrote

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  8. Love this post, i think i get asked all of these questions every time i go home! Im still chuckling at Taxis and Diamonds being the only cheap thing in Dubai #truestory I work for a local company and again have never had any problems living and working as a western woman, in fact i was happily gloating to the other half while registering my car the other day as i skipped to the ladies queue and was in and out in no time. great post! x

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  9. As someone who grew up in Dubai and left a while back but is thinking of going back in the future, it was a very insightful post! Dubai is a weird city, in a good and bad way. The only thing I really don't like about it though is that on some level you will always feel like you're an expat... you will never feel like it's your home (even though- for me- I gre up there!). Great post Laura! :)

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  10. Lovely and very detail post you have touched every little thing I was interested in. Dubai has always fascinated me becuase it is so modern and last year I wanted to visit it but only time I could go was during Ramadan. People in travel companies told us about not eating rule and temperatures so we booked something else but hoping to visit it this year!

    sparklygoddess.blogspot.com

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  11. Great post Laura! I moved home from Abu Dhabi a year ago now and miss it so much. I now live my life vicariously through yourself and Simone! It's such an amazing place to live, so safe, so multicultural, it really is like a bubble. The heat in the summer was the only downside for me but I'd recommend anyone to go over if they were given the opportunity! X

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  12. This was a real interesting read. I've never been to Dubai before, but I've always wanted to visit. It's nice to get an inside look at what life living as an expat is like there. Thanks for sharing! :)

    http://www.mintnotion.com

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  13. This was such an interesting read -- I've always wondered about the dress code and how it works outside the tourist areas. thanks for sharing!

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  14. I loved this post, I visited Dubai in February for the third time and could have stayed forever, would love to live there one day. I know this would be different for everybody but to live a comfortable lifestyle in a reasonable area, are salaries similar to the UK or do you think it is more expensive?

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  15. This is interesting to read. I once read an article in the independent which did put me off a little
    http://www.independent.co.uk/voices/commentators/johann-hari/the-dark-side-of-dubai-1664368.html

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    1. Thank you for posting the article! I found Lauras FAQ a bit one-dimensional and the independent article proveds a different side to the story!

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  16. Dubai is on my list of places to visit. It always sounds so lovely whenever i hear people speaking about it!!x
    AllysDays.blogspot.com

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  17. I agree with your statement about "being hard to make friends when you're older." I have moved around a lot in my 20's and now again in my 30's for work (all within the same country-usa) and it's been challenging maintaining friendships and making new ones. :-/

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  18. I've been wanting to accompany my husband on his business trips to the UAE and found the dress code advice very helpful.

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  19. So nice to read your thoughts! I remember when you announced you were moving over there back in the day :) I grew up in New York, moved to Melbourne when I was 18, stayed there 8.5 years, then lived in Copenhagen for 1.5 years and now commute between Denmark and the UK where I now lived for the better part of a year. I'm not sure if or where I'll "settle", but the longer you live abroad the more "home" is an ambiguous concept. I have very close friends all over the world, and feel like a foreigner when I visit the US. I've loved meeting so many different people and would never trade it for the comfort of stability or familiarity. I think it's very liberating to learn how to fit in and adapt to different places without having to conform to all the social conventions/expectations of any one place. I've also never considered myself an "expat".

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  20. Great post Laura! I've been holidaying in Dubai for 25 years and have watched it change and develop from a desert with camels to a metropolis! I love Dubai and often wish I had emigrated but now I'm turning 30 I'm happy to be settled in the UK and look forward to my annual trip to my favourite place in the world and live vicariously through your blog the rest of the year! X

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  21. I found this so interesting Laura! I've been to Dubai once very briefly and would love to visit again as I found it so stunning. I lived abroad for more than ten years myself, in Brussels, and loved it. Of course it's a lot closer to home than Dubai and more like the UK in many ways, but I still related to a lot of what you said. I think that living in another country broadens your horizons in a way no other experience can. x

    Kate Louise Blogs

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  22. Loved reading this - I've visited Dubai so many times on holiday and do think about making the move. Definitely agree with your dress code advice, it's the thing I get asked about the most by friends and after my first visit I didn't even really think of it anymore - going on holiday to Spain last year was a bit of an eye-opener in comparison! x
    LilyLipstick

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  23. Great post!

    http://www.cristinasurdu.com/

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  24. My sister who currently lives in Dubai also agrees with you and says that it is an unbelievable place to live. Having visited her once I would most definitely agree with that! I absolutely love it and would find living there to be the most amazing time. I can definitely see how the luxuriousness and feel could get old though. Where would you want to move to next if not back home to the UK?

    Annie N Belle

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  25. Thanks for the info! After watching sex and the city, I was a little nervous about Dubai but after reading your post, I may just have to visit! :)
    http://www.lovelysharice.com/

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  26. I live as an expat in the UK. It might not have been a big change, but still. I've always wanted to move somewhere else...maybe this is the time? (!)

    www.allnnothing.com

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  27. What a great post! Very educating! :) hope everything continues to go well. :)

    Dorky-and-weird.blogspot.com

    Xoxo Jessy

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  28. I have wanted to move abroad for quite some time and even had everything prepared and a date set when we discovered I was pregnant. The decision was to get the baby here in Germany and move a little later. Now, 14 months later, I don't think I could ever take Little Bean away from her grandparents again. My perspective and priorities have changed.
    Reading your post makes me regret this a little, but still...

    LindaLibraLoca: Beauty, Baby and Backpacking

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  29. "Would you wear this on the tube late at night" made me chuckle. Late night NYC subway outfits would be outright banned in Dubai. lol If you're in a certain place you need have some respect for the people around you. Dubai sounds like an interesting place to visit!

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  30. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  31. Laura, this is a wonderful post!

    I just want to thank you for the respect you showed in this post, especially when describing the dress codes.
    I wish more people thought this way too!

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  32. Been in Dubai for 10 years and sometimes I still struggle especially on the way some behave. But at the end of the day, what do I expect? I live in the city that has more nationalities than any cities in the world so it is natural to have differences. As you point out, I just roll my eyes and move on. Other than that, I am good :) just wish the 'winter' months are longer and the summer is less harsh. Great post!

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  33. Thanks for your interesting, thoughtful post. I've never lived in Dubai, but I have lived abroad several times and most of your advice transfers well across countries--even if the specifics aren't the same, the concept applies.

    I think I've said this in a comment before (and if not, I meant to!): you have a wonderful writing style that would translate marvelously to a book some day...hint hint. :)

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  34. Being a fellow expat living just across the waters in Doha made this a very interesting read - it's reassuring to know that Dubai (despite being so much bigger/way more advanced than my tiny adopted home) still has many a similarity to Doha. A very good reference for anybody thinking of moving to the UAE...i'll definitely be revisiting this if ever Doha and I fall out! :)

    www.hollytheblonde.com

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  35. Thank you for these insights, it's always so interesting to read!
    Your answer about getting more respect in work from locals made think of a thing my lecturer once said: That the locals often think that the woman is extra-good in the job she is doing because, well, the company sent her and no man ;)

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  36. This was so interesting and inspireing to read! Thank you for taking the time!

    Love, Marie
    pocketfulofmakeup.blogspot.com

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  37. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  38. Loved this post so much! I lived abroad in Belize for a little bit of time and am already itching to become an expat once more. I completely agree about finding things that are "yours". Thanks for sharing your insights. :)

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  39. This is so insightful! I have been thinking about moving to America, so this post really opened my eyes to the questions I should be asking when thinking about going to a different country :)

    http://www.champagne-lifestyle.com/

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  40. This was such a brilliant post. I've been considering a move over to Dubai with work for quite some time now but thought I'd struggle there as a western woman and not speaking Arabic would really have a negative impact on me if I did so I'm pleased do see that from your experience this isn't the case xx

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  41. err, do you post or sign in first?
    well anyway, brilliant post yet again! informative and entertaining.
    i'm starting to look into work overseas, i think it's time. i've done all i wanted to do where i am.

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  42. Living abroad helps you see things from a different perspective and Dubai is so different compared to UK. The most challenging part is getting used to their culture – from food and routines to their strict religious views.

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